Nepal
Suggested Itinerary
Nepal is probably best known for being home to eight of the world's 10 highest mountains, including the incomparable Mount Everest, the loftiest of them all. Trekking and hiking are, of course, extremely popular in this small, stunningly beautiful Himalayan country, which is surrounded by China, India and Bhutan and boasts some of the planet's most picturesque mountain scenery. The very subtle line between Buddhism and Hinduism in Nepal – where both faiths worship the same gods in the same temples – is unique among world religious practices. This former monarchy, known as the Kingdom of Nepal until 2006 when the King relinquished his power, is now officially called the State of Nepal. A ceasefire has been declared with the Maoist guerillas who led an insurgency against the monarchy, and, as of April, 2007 the political situation is stable, with an interim power-sharing arrangement keeping the peace between the Maoists and the parliamentary parties of the Nepalese government. Remote Lands’ recommended journey takes you from the capital city of Kathmandu, through the world heritage sites of the Kathmandu Valley, to treks in Pokhara and, depending on the month, a once-in-a-lifetime thrill of skydiving at Mount Everest. These are ideas only and your client’s itinerary will be designed to suit his own dates, budgets, interests, needs and desires.
Day 1 – Kathmandu
After arriving in Asia via Delhi, fly to Kathmandu. Check in to the lovely Dwarika's Shangri-la Resort, located just outside Kathmandu city near Pashupatinath, Nepal's most sacred mountain. Winner of a prestigious World Heritage Award for outstanding historical preservation, Dwarika’s 74 guest rooms and suites are decorated with intricate carved wood and terracotta work in the traditional Newari style.
Wander the narrow streets and alleyways of the old quarter of Kathmandu, with its myriad tiny stalls and colorful street life. Visit the many different markets including the famous bead market and the Indrachowk carpet and textile market (but beware of the fake pashmina sellers).
Visit the Swayambhunath Stupa, also known as the Monkey Temple. Located on the western fringes of the city, this complex of monasteries of all faiths was started in 460 A.D. by King Mana Devi of the Licchavi era. The imposing structure is recognized as a major landmark of Kathmandu and is distinguished by its population of freely roaming monkeys.
Have dinner, sitting cross-legged on the floor in the traditional manner, and sample local Nepalese delicacies such as dahl bat (lentils and rice) that are generally accompanied by vegetable curries. You will be joined for cocktails beforehand, and/or for dinner, by a prominent local member of the diplomatic or business community.
Day 2 – Kathmandu
Visit the center of Kathmandu, Durbar Square, with its amazing complex of temples and monuments that have witnessed the rise and fall of several dynasties, including the Licchavi, Mala, and most recently the Shah dynasty. The Hanuman Dhoka Palace is the old royal palace and was the Nepalese monarch's residence until the 19th century. Until very recently, major celebrations such as the coronation of the king still took place in the imposing white European-style structure.
There are many stunning temples on Durbar Square, including the Bhagwati temple, the Kal Bhairab shrine, dedicated to the six-armed god of destruction, and the most magnificent of them all, the temple of the mother goddess Taleju Bhawani. Built in the 15th century and supported by 12 plinths, Taleju is off-limits to all but the royal family and a few select priests.
Nearby to Durbar Square is Kumari Bahal, the royal residence of the Kumari, or Living Goddess. In a tradition that has continued up to the present, a young girl from the Newar community incarnates the role of the Virgin Goddess, a title she holds until she reaches puberty or sheds blood in any way, even if it is from a cut. Traditionally, the Kumari gives her blessing to the king. It started when the first king of the Shah dynasty, who unified Kathmandu in 1768, was blessed by the Kumari. But with the monarchy abolished in 2008, the privilege is now bestowed upon the head of state of the new Nepal republic.
Have tea with a family living in one of the historic bahals around a common courtyard in the old part of town. Here you will have the opportunity to chat with your hosts about their lives and livelihoods, and to hear about a way of life so very different from your own.
For dinner, try the award-winning Krishnarpan restaurant, which serves elegant Nepali food in 6-, 9-, 12- and 16-course meals. The six-course meal consists of three starters, a soup, lentils, vegetables, and pickles, plus dessert. The 16-course meal is an event in itself, with a seemingly endless variety of dishes served over four hours.
Day 3 – Kathmandu Valley
Have breakfast at your hotel before setting out for a day of exploring the cultural and architectural riches of the Kathmandu Valley, with the omnipresent peaks of the Himalayas for a backdrop. The political and cultural center of Nepal, the Kathmandu Valley was a natural crossroads for the ancient civilizations of the Himalayan region. In addition to the capital, there are two other important cities, Patan (or Lalitpur) and Bhaktapur; a plethora of temples and pilgrimage sites sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus; and seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, which were grouped together in 1979 into a designation encompassing the whole valley.
Also known as Lalitpur, the ancient city of Patan, on a plateau overlooking the Bagmati River, was once a separate kingdom. Originally built on the shape of the Buddhist Dharma Chakra, or Wheel of Righteousness, Patan is surrounded by four stupas corresponding to the four cardinal points, and is home to over 1,200 Buddhist shrines. It is famed for the beauty of its elegant Newari architecture, which is on prominent display in the central (Durbar) square, one of the valley's seven World Heritage sites.
You will be met and guided by a renowned architecture expert, who will take you on a private architectural tour. Visit Patan's Durbar Square, fronted by an amazing assortment of buildings, and the ancient Royal Palace. Explore the gracefully carved and ornamented chowks (courtyards) of the palace, as well as its temples, including the Krishna Mandir, the only temple in Nepal with 21 shrines and which is built entirely of stone.
Have lunch at one of the many small cafes surrounding the Durbar and take in the passing scene of travelers, vendors and pilgrims, accompanied by a cup of hot chia – a Nepali tea with milk, much like Indian chai.
Browse the street stalls and markets – Patan is known for the exquisite metalwork and woodwork of its artisans. Visit some of them in their studios and learn the finer points of their metalworking technique.
Pay your respects at the massive and imposing Jagat Naryan Temple, a red brick complex on the banks of the Bagmati dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
Bhaktapur, like Kathmandu and Patan, has a landmarked Durbar fronted by a former palace, but few cars are allowed into the city, and the streets are mostly free for pedestrians, providing an interesting contrast to the relative hubbub of Kathmandu.
The palace has been converted into the National Art Gallery, which has one of the finest collections of Nepali art in the world. With a curator, wander its historic galleries, illuminated by the palace's 55 windows, and take in the collections of ancient manuscripts, religious paintings, and sculptures of Hindu and Buddhist deities.
The Nyatapol Temple, on Taumadhi Square, is the tallest in the country, with a five-story pagoda. The struts, doors and windows of the tower display Newari woodworking skill at its finest, and each tier has a different theme. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Siddhi Laxmi, the manifestation of female force and creativity.
Bhaktapur, however, is best known for its pottery, which you will notice in abundance as you wander the narrow streets of the old city. In potter's square, dozens of artisans work outdoors on giant traditional wheels, spinning and shaping the numerous rows of clay vessels set out to dry.
In the evening, return to Kathmandu and try the cosmopolitan Cafe Mitra for dinner. In the bustling Thamel neighborhood, Mitra serves a fusion of Asian and Western cuisines in a stylish room decorated with contemporary art.
Day 4 – Kathmandu Valley / Pokhara
The Boudhanath Temple, another of the Valley’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Located about 7 miles from the center of Kathmandu on the northeastern outskirts of the city, the stupa of Boudhanath dominates the skyline. Its vast circular base is topped with a tower draped with lines of prayer flags and painted on each side with a huge pair of eyes, symbolizing the all-seeing powers of the divine. Throughout the day, pilgrims can be seen circumambulating the stupa chanting mantras, some completing the circuit while prostrating themselves at each step. The pilgrims continue to circle into the night when the temple is illuminated by butter lamps. Anyone is free to join in, but remember to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction and also to spin the prayer wheels clockwise.
The influx of large populations of Tibetan refugees via China has seen the construction of over 50 Tibetan Gompas (Monasteries) around Boudhanath. Tibetan merchants on the road to India often rested and offered prayers here, and when refugees from the Chinese occupation of Tibet started arriving in the 1950s, many decided to live around Boudhanath. The area is now one of the main homes of the Tibetan community in exile, and the streets are filled with stores selling Tibetan goods.
Have a Tibetan lunch of momos (savory dumplings filled with potatoes, vegetables or meat), thupka (a hearty noodle stew) and butter tea in one of the cafes nearby, with a view of the stupa and the kaleidoscopic whirl of activity surrounding it.
The Pashupatinah Temple, roughly 20 minutes from Boudhanath, is as sacred to Nepal's Hindus as Boudhanath is to its Buddhists. On the banks of the Bagmati River, the temple is similar to Varanasi in India – the Bagmati flows into the sacred Ganges, and people flock here to purify themselves in the waters and to guarantee their relatives immortality by having them cremated on the ghats and their ashes scattered. The main temple, dedicated to Shiva in the form of lord of the animals, is off-limits to non-Hindus, but you can wander the tranquil grounds and observe the activities of the temple from across the river.
Take a short, 40-minute flight to the small city of Pokhara, to the west of Kathmandu. Pokhara is the base for most treks in the region of Annapurna: a 34-mile-long massif whose highest point, Annapurna I, stands at 26,538 feet and is the 10th-highest summit in the world. Annapurna is a Sanskrit name meaning “Goddess of the Harvests.” The sparkling white peaks of the range are constantly on view in Pohkara, and are shown to great effect when reflected in the calm waters of Lake Fewa. Machapuchare, a lower mountain towards the southern end of the ridge, has earned the name "the Matterhorn of Nepal" for its striking, sharp peak that splits into two parts (its Nepalese name means "Fish Tail"). Machapuchare is a sacred mountain and its summit has never been climbed.
Check in to the Tiger Mountain Lodge, perched on a hill outside town with dramatic views of Annapurna. The boutique property has only 19 rooms spread over a collection of private stonewalled bungalows, and allows you to enjoy this remarkable setting in total privacy and comfort. Tiger Mountain has won an eco-tourism award from Condé Nast Traveler magazine, and its bamboo and fruit trees among its terraced gardens are a haven for wildlife. The restaurant serves gourmet continental meals using organically grown produce from the lodge's own gardens.
After dinner, retire to the library for drinks or coffee and peruse their collection of papers and photographs collected by the late Col. J.O.M. Roberts, regarded as the father of trekking in Nepal.
Alternatively, stay at the Fishtail Lodge, whose profits are donated to the Princess Jayanti Memorial Trust, which provides free cardiac care to underprivileged Nepalese and conducts various programs to raise public awareness regarding the causes of heart disease in Nepal. The lodge offers unspoiled views of Pokhara Valley and the surrounding mountains, where roughly 525 species of birds can be spotted. Go bird-watching with the lodge’s expert bird guide, then have an alfresco dinner and take in the sunset views of Annapurna.
Day 5 – Pokhara
Get up early to see the sun rise over the Himalayas before setting out on your own mini-trek (4-6 hours). The Annapurna circuit has become renowned as one of the great walks of the world. While the full-circuit trek, consisting of a 21- to 23-day walk, is for the more adventurous with the appropriate physical condition – not to mention the necessary time on hand – the Annapurna area offers a multitude of shorter treks as well, ranging from day hikes out of Pokhara to short treks of 3-4 days to excursions of a week or more.
Spend the day climbing through the hills around Pokhara to a mountaintop viewpoint with a fabulous view of Annapurna and Lake Fewa. Along the way, you will pass through montane forests home to hundreds of species of birds and other wildlife. Your route will also take you through villages and past several local temples. Stop and have lunch in the home of a village family and learn about how they live and earn their keep in this striking landscape.
Return to your accommodation for a dip in its infinity edge pool overlooking the peaks. Then, freshen up for dinner in Pokhara at Bistro Caroline, a sister property of Kathmandu's best French restaurant, which offers excellent dishes and a lengthy wine list in a lovely setting on the shore of the lake.
Day 6 – Pokhara
Plan another day hike in the Pohkara region with your guide, or spend the day mountain biking or exploring the hills immediate to the lodge with trails that start right from the property. You can also hire a boat for an afternoon cruising Fewa Lake. The hotel will pack a gourmet picnic lunch for you to enjoy along the way.
Day 7 – Royal Chitwan National Park
Even though most people think of snow-capped mountains when they think of Nepal, nearly half of the population lives in the hot, jungle-covered lowlands known as the Terai. A landscape dense with rivers, trees and animals, the Terai offers one of the best wildlife experiences in Asia. Preserving the best of this unique landscape, Royal Chitwan National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage site – is home to endangered populations of the Asian one-horned rhinoceros and the Bengal tiger.
After a short, 30-minute flight to a private airstrip in the jungle, you will be met by drivers and Land Rovers from the Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge deep within the heart of the park for a roughly one-hour drive to your accommodation. Designed to harmonize with their surroundings, the buildings of Tiger Tops are set in the canopy above the forest floor and are built entirely from local materials. Each room has solar-powered reading lamps and fans and a solar-heated shower; the lodge itself is powered by the largest solar array in Nepal.
Have lunch at the lodge before setting out with one of their expertly trained naturalists for an afternoon of exploring the forest, teeming with a diversity of species such as leopards, sloth bears, spotted deer, monkeys and flying squirrels, in addition to rhinos and tigers.
In the evening, have a cocktail in the lodge's central bar and restaurant, which has a huge domed roof and open fireplace, before dining on a meal of local Nepali specialties made from organic produce grown in the lodge’s own gardens.
Day 8 – Royal Chitwan National Park
On your second day at Royal Chitwan, venture even further into the rich landscape of the park as you travel by elephant. The park encompasses not only dense forests, but also flood plains and grasslands, where the grasses can sometimes reach 20 feet in height, dwarfing even your mount for the morning.
In the afternoon, relax at the lodge, or raft down the park's Narayani river, spotting wildlife coming to the river to drink, and keeping an eye out for Gharials, a local species of crocodile.
Day 9 – Nagarkot
Return to Kathmandu and then drive one hour into countryside to the charming hill station of Nagarkot. This small town, perched at 7,000 feet on the ridge enclosing the Kathmandu Valley, is reputed to have some of the best vistas of the Himalayas in Nepal.
Check in to Club Himalaya, a small, luxurious hotel with 360-degree views. Each room has a balcony and a dramatic view of the mountains. Weather permitting, you might be able to see the sun rise and set over the towering peak of Everest.
Explore the town and have lunch at a small local cafe, then spend the afternoon hiking or pony-trekking in the forests and hills that surround the town, accompanied along the way by the beautiful views.
Return to the hotel for tea in its cozy teahouse followed by dinner.
Day 10 – Mount Everest
Drive back to Kathmandu, where you will meet your private Sherpa guides and helicopter for what's sure to be the highlight of your journey in Nepal – a flight right into the heart of the Everest region.
May, October, November: If you are in Nepal during these months, you can experience the once-in-a-lifetime thrill of skydiving past Mount Everest. Helicopter to Namche Bazaar, the starting point of a short, hour-long hike to Syangboche. Once you arrive at Syangboche, check in to a spectacular resort located at an altitude of 12,598 feet. Spend a few days here acclimating to the altitude with treks through the bucolic landscape and visits to local farmhouses.
The skydive itself will be a thrill beyond your wildest dreams. Jumping from a height of 29,500 feet, you will freefall past some of the world's highest mountains, including Everest, on to the highest drop zone in the world at Syangboche, 12,350 feet. If you are experienced enough, you can do a solo jump. Supplementary oxygen will be provided for all high altitude jumps.
At other times of the year: From Kathmandu you will fly several hours through dramatic mountain scenery, drawing closer to the snow-capped peaks of the highest Himalayas. At an elevation of 12,700 feet, you will touch down at the remote Tengboche Monastery, set high above the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Imja Khola rivers, with a clear view of the towering mountains in the near distance. About 350 years ago, a high priest of the Khumbu region declared that there would one day be an important religious center at Tengboche, but it wasn't until 1923 that his reincarnation founded the actual monastery. Today it is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Sherpa culture, with over 50 monks residing within its walls.
Tengboche is surrounded by ancient mani stones inscribed with the classic Buddhist mantra, "Om Mani Padme Hum," intended to invoke the bodhisattva of compassion, surely a useful ally in this harsh climate. Prayer flags flutter in the constant breeze coming off the high peaks; the flags, in five colors, represent the five Buddhist elements: earth, wind, fire, water, and consciousness. Have tea with the monastery's abbot in his quarters, learn about his life and beliefs, and receive a special blessing. Then wander the grounds, observing the monks at work with their simple tasks and at afternoon prayers, and light a butter lamp before departing for the return flight to Kathmandu.
Check in to Dwarika’s for your last night in Nepal. Unwind with a massage from the hotel's in-house therapists, who are trained in a variety of techniques, including the ancient Indian discipline of Ayurvedic massage and traditional the traditional Newari style.
Toast the end of your journey over a celebratory, multi-course meal at Krishnarpan.