The great wonder of Orchha isn’t its architecture or even its rich history. Orchha is empty. Compared to the fortresses and temples of Rajasthan and elsewhere, this region of Madhya Pradesh is a lonesome gem.
“Your lips are turning blue,” said the Kiwi pilot, shouting over the roaring chopper. “That’s the first sign of altitude sickness.” If the blades are turned off, the helicopter won’t start again in the thin, dry air.