“The Yabgo dynasty ruled this area for 2,000 years,” the king says. The humble Yabgo Mohammad Khan Kacho rules over the buckwheat fields and quiet stone streets of Turtuk on the Ladakh’s Pakistan borderlands.
The great wonder of Orchha isn’t its architecture or even its rich history. Orchha is empty. Compared to the fortresses and temples of Rajasthan and elsewhere, this region of Madhya Pradesh is a lonesome gem.