Bombay Mix

The nation’s capital of commerce, Mumbai is developing at a breakneck pace that is typically Indian. Here you’ll find the towering chrome and glass skyscrapers, luxury hotels and glamorous young things that square with the image of the modern, prosperous state the country aspires to be. It figures then that this cosmopolitan metropolis is home to some of the most scintillating food on the sub-continent. Sleek designer venues keeping Bollywood A-listers supplied with molecular tasting menus and farm-to-table Indian fusion. At the other end of the scale, venerable old stagers, and simple canteens major in everything from Mangalorean-style seafood and Mughlai kebabs to Gujarati thalis.

A contender for the prize for Mumbai’s most egalitarian seafood restaurant, Trishna unites food lovers of all strands. Everyone from middle-class families to captains of industry and movie stars flock here to gorge on signatures like the garlic butter crab and the fish koliwada (fish marinated then deep fried in a delicious spicy batter). Indeed, there are many who would content that a gastronomic exploration of the city would not be complete without sampling the versions of Hyderabadi fish tikka, Mangalorean neer dosa and various other South Indian fish dishes served here. Like other outstanding old-school restaurants in the city, you can be assured that the crowds of diners lining up outside are here for the food rather than the décor, which errs towards the shabby side. Any aesthetic shortcomings are, however, amply compensated for by the skills at play in the kitchen. The freshest seafood from the Arabian Sea is cooked simply but packed with flavour and punch.

Despite Mumbai’s outward-facing nature, many of its most exciting homegrown restaurants still have an Indian focus that tends to permeate rather than inflect their food. That’s no surprise given India’s deeply rooted culinary traditions and its outstanding regional cooking. Even so, it’s refreshing to witness the enduring success of The Table: a venue that trumpets its locavore credentials proudly while maintaining a cuisine-agnostic approach in its globally inspired food. Dishes here take inspiration from various countries courtesy of a selection of enticing small and larger plates that run the culinary gamut from Roman style pici cacio pepe (pasta with pecorino cheese and pepper) to signature boneless chicken wings with a ginger glaze. Produce is largely sourced from the restaurant’s farm in the nearby town of Alibag, while the overriding spirit of collectivism is reflected in bakery items that come from The Table’s sister enterprise Magazine Street Kitchen, an inter-disciplinary and collaborative space focused on good food in a converted warehouse in the formerly industrial Darukhana area.

Conceptualized by the team behind Bombay Canteen, O Pedro is an ode to Goa that is as inviting as any of the paradise beaches in India’s sunshine state. Goa cuisine stands apart even in a nation with as much culinary diversity as India. The tiny enclave, sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and giant neighbours Maharashtra and Karnataka, is characterized by its mash-up of various influences, with centuries of Muslim and then Portuguese rule combining with strong Hindu traditions. Unsurprisingly, these various strands have fed strongly into the food culture. O Pedro utilizes this palette of vivid colours to uplifting effect. Originally from Goa, chef Floyd Cardoz has invested obvious care and sentiment in a menu that fuses the flavours of his home state with more straight-down-the-line Portuguese style cooking. The upshot is a menu that strikes a balance between creative small plates such as crispy yucca tossed with Indian capers, dried red chili and garlic and served with coriander sour cream and heartier portions such as a sea bass, coconut, and mango curry that a Goan grandmother wouldn’t be ashamed to serve up.