Echoes of an Empire

In the early 15^th century, Hampi was the second largest city in the world after Beijing. The capital of the mighty Vijayanagara Kingdom that ruled a chunk of the southern part of the Indian subcontinent was also one of the wealthiest cities, ensconced in glitzy splendor. The city bustled with its bazaars that traded in cotton and spice that were exported to Europe, Persia, Arabia, and Burma, and always teemed with merchants from around the globe.

“I never saw a place like this,” wrote Nicolo de Conti, the Venetian merchant who arrived in Hampi in 1420, the first European to set his eyes on the Vijayanagara empire. The opulent palaces, magnificent temples, imposing fortifications and dainty riverside pavilions of Hampi became the stuff of legend after being chronicled by the likes of Conti and other merchants.

The glory as often is the case, was transient. In 1565, an alliance of the Deccan Sultanates laid siege upon the Vijayanagara empire. For five months, Hampi was plundered, the majestic monuments were razed, and citizens were tortured and bludgeoned. Even this crudest form of mayhem and carnage could not obliterate the magnificence that was Hampi and the UNESCO-listed destination is one of the biggest draws in Southern India. Here are a few pointers on what makes it special.

Overseas trade in spices, horses and precious stones transformed Hampi into an international business hub as early as the mid-14^th century. Many foreign traders made the capital of the Vijayanagara kingdom their long-term base, lending a cosmopolitan flavour to the medieval city. A truly multicultural population thrived in Hampi, as documented by early European travellers.  

A sprawling fortified zone that was once the heart of the Vijayanagara Empire, the Royal Enclosure was the residence of the royal family of the kingdom. Ruins of palaces and courts are strewn across the area. The Lotus Mahal with its cusped arches and clusters of decorative panels is a testament to the strong influence of Islamic architecture in Hampi. Built as a leisure house for the king’s consorts, the breezy mahal with its lobed arches and open pavilions is best viewed when the mellow rays of the late afternoon sun glance off its elegant contours and drench the lush green compound with a soft glow.

A short walk away is the Elephant Stables, a perfectly symmetric linear building with rows of domed structures, and homes of the royal elephants. The large central hall used by troupes of musicians during the royal procession with the pachyderms has a temple-like tower, while the chambers on both sides reflect the Islamic architectural motifs and style.

A dry moat runs around (five centuries ago it was filled with water and crocodiles) the rather plain exterior of the Queen’s Bath, but once inside you are awestruck with this engineering marvel. A cool breeze blows around the open corridor of this royal aquatic complex whose vaulted ceiling still bears traces of elaborate stucco work.  Ornate balconies with seating areas overlook the pool in the center.

Hampi is dotted with fascinating temple architecture. One of the highlights is Virupaksha temple, where Lord Shiva is still worshipped. The 160-ft tall cream-white pyramidal structure houses numerous chapels and statues and a beautifully sculpted, pillared pavilion (called the mandapa) which still hosts auspicious ceremonies for local people where Lakshmi, the resident elephant of Virupaksha temple is the guest of honour.

The walls of Hazara Rama temple look more like a graphic novel visually depicting the tales of Ramayana where the stories are etched as frescoes on the granite walls of this early 15^th-century temple, dedicated to Lord Rama. It was a private temple of the royal family. The epic wall carvings extend into the small shrine in the ornate interiors that house a dainty porch.

The untarred path that leads to the Achyutaraya temple seems engulfed in a time warp since the days when the grandiose temple complex was built in 1534. The long, covered boulevard that stems off the temple is in crumbling ruins. This was a grand bazaar with shops dealing in pearls, rubies, emeralds and diamonds. The temple today is a derelict complex of red-capped structures that are now homes to groups of black-faced langurs, but the exquisite carvings of the towers and pillared passageways speak of a glorious past.

The crowning glory of the Hampi temple circuit is the architectural masterpiece of Vijaya Vittala temple – the eternal symbol of the Vijayanagara kingdom. The unmatched craftsmanship is reflected none better than in the exquisitely carved musical pillars of the rangamandapa. The set of 56 monolithic pillars emanates musical notes when tapped gently. The temple complex branches out to the other pavilions and statues etched on the granite walls. The final stop, right in front of the rangamandapa, is the iconic stone chariot, a miniature temple dedicated to Garuda (the carrier of Lord Vishnu). Legend has it that the four wheels of the stone chariot could be made to turn on their axis!

A stony path saunters its way along the bends of the River Tungabhadra connecting the Vittala temple with Hampi bazaar. The 2-km stretch of rocky trail is marked with rock carvings, natural overhangs, cliffside chambers and obscure monuments hidden behind huge boulders. It is here that you find Hampi at its most primitive, and most evocative with its herd of striped squirrels and droves of monkeys scampering about the random, abandoned structures with the meandering Tungabhadra in the backdrop.

Tungabhadra River is a constant feature as you flit in and out of the architectural marvels and the circular-shaped country boats plying on the swirling waters of the river have been in use to ferry people and livestock since the days of the Vijayanagara empire. And it is an excellent way to explore Hampi from a riverine angle as the coracle takes you down the river; and your helmsman, while deftly negotiating the currents and ravines of the river, delves into the history and architectural details of the temples as they pop into view over the boulder-strewn banks.

The stepped ramp at the western flank of Matanga Hill zigzags its way up to the highest point in Hampi, a 45-minute hike to get to its top. From up there, the vast swathes of granite-strewn landscape that was once one of the richest kingdoms on earth look magnificent, oozing a soft, crimson glow in the mellow afternoon light. The architectural wonders dotted across this landscape, untouched by modernity, glance off the slant rays of the sun and in that solitary wilderness you can almost feel that the place is frozen in time. The din and the bustle of the medieval empire would come alive at any moment, just the way it had been, five centuries ago.