Tucked away in the eastern Himalayas, Sikkim is India’s second smallest and least populous state. It shares borders with Nepal, Bhutan, and Tibet. Despite its compact size, the state boasts an incredibly diverse landscape, ranging from subtropical forests to towering Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest mountain.
Reverence for nature runs deep here and shines through in customs such as worshipping sacred trees like the pipal. This respect extends to a commitment to sustainability, with Sikkim leading the way as India’s first fully organic state, banning chemical fertilisers to promote eco-friendly farming. The rhododendron, the state flower, symbolises this bond with nature and is cherished for its beauty and role in traditional medicine as a fever reliever.
Intrigued by the environmental ethos and remote landscapes, I set out on the Dzongri Trek. This four-day high-altitude hike follows the first half of the Goecha La Route, an eight-day journey that culminates in close-up views of Kanchenjunga. With limited time, my goal is Dzongri Top, offering a distant but no less captivating view of the mountain.
I flew from Delhi to Gangtok, Sikkim’s capital, where the hum of bustling markets and the scent of incense filled the air. From there, a four-hour taxi ride west leads me to Yuksom. Surrounded by dense forests and towering peaks, this peaceful village is home to the tranquil Dubdi Monastery and the serene Kathok Lake, both of which offer calm and a spiritual connection to the surrounding mountains. Yuksom, with its timeless atmosphere, serves as the gateway to the Himalayas.
The trek begins with a steady climb from Yuksom through a forest rich with pine scents and damp soil. The hum of cicadas filled the air as the path crossed suspension bridges adorned with colourful prayer flags, reflecting the region’s spiritual heritage.
Sachen, the first campsite, is almost hidden among rhododendrons and magnolias. Despite its simplicity, it offers luxury camping with spacious tents and gourmet meals prepared by experienced cooks. My guide, Sanjay, a local born and bred in Yuksom, takes care of every detail, allowing me to focus on the trek ahead.
The ascent from Sachen to Tshoka is more demanding, with steeper gradients testing both stamina and focus. The trail wove through woodland before emerging at Bakhim, a small outpost offering a welcome break. Mount Pandim came into view from here—a striking presence with its sharp, icy ridges and a peak that seemed to pierce the sky. Its glacial slopes glinted under the sun, framed by verdant hues of the surrounding forest, a dramatic contrast that hinted at the rugged beauty ahead.
Tshoka, a Tibetan settlement, greeted us with prayer wheels spinning in the breeze and the tranquil presence of its monastery. The landscape shifted here, with the dense canopy giving way to open skies. Though small, this spot offers the first clear views of Kanchenjunga, marking the transition into the high Himalayas and a deepening sense of immersion.
The climb from Tshoka to Dzongri is challenging and rewarding, as the trail wound through shaded pathways before opening onto sweeping ridges. Along the way, Sanjay shares stories of the elusive red panda—revered in Sikkimese culture as a symbol of harmony and biodiversity, yet so rarely seen that even he, with years of trekking experience, had never encountered one. As we continued, the scenery transformed; low-lying rhododendrons lining the path burst into vivid reds and pinks, their vibrant tones striking against the snow-dusted peaks in the distance.
Reaching Deorali Top (3,750 metres) offers our first sweeping view of the Himalayas, with Kanchenjunga teasing us in the distance, its imposing presence surrounded by countless towering peaks on the horizon. However, Deorali also provides a much-needed rest stop. The steep ascent and increasing altitude had made my breathing more shallow, making it an essential point for acclimatisation before the final push to Dzongri Camp.
Leaving Dzongri Camp at 5 a.m. in freezing darkness is far from easy, but it is the only way to witness the sunrise from the trek’s most breathtaking vantage point. The short 40-minute climb to Dzongri Top (4,200 metres) rewarded us with an unforgettable spectacle. As the first light touched the peaks, the mountains blazed with golden rays, a moment so radiant it filled me with pure joy.
After breakfast at camp, we begin the long journey back to Yuksom, compressing three ascending days into one. Yet, it offers the chance to notice details often missed on the climb—frost shimmering on leaves, the distant birdsong of the Himalayan Monal, or the soft wind chime through ancient pines. The descent brought a quiet end to the trek, offering physical relief and a lasting connection to the Himalayas—its warmth and stories, where nature and tradition intertwined.
Sikkim’s remote location in northeastern India has helped it avoid the heavy influx of hikers in other parts of the Himalayas. As a result, Dzongri remains largely unspoiled, offering a sense of authenticity to its visitors. Equally important is the deep commitment of its people to preserving their unique environment and way of life through sustainable practices.
This trek offers a striking contrast that sets it apart from many others. On one side, it’s a physical challenge within the lesser-known Eastern Himalayan mountains; on the other, it’s a spiritual journey where monks outnumber hikers as they move between monasteries.
Being part of this sacred experience with Sanjay and his team feels like a privilege, far removed from the usual pursuit of hiking to summits for the bragging rights alone. Each moment on the trail, from the prayer flags fluttering in the wind to the distant hum of chanting monks, seems to echo the timeless rhythm of life in this mystical region.